Thursday, 14 June 2012

Pics in between

Rough times behind!

Leopards are a rare sight

Don't get in between her and her cub

North south or east west?

Who is the voyeur, Johannes or him?


Chased this monkey out of our hotel room

Nothing but kids everywhere!

Mean after bee sting

Baboons on road side

This tree surfaced after 500 years below sand dune


On safari

Saturday, 9 June 2012

Desert, Safaris and Falls





Namibia is a frontier country with a small population of less than 2 million people, lots of cows (more than people!) and stunning rusty red/orange coloured landscapes-sand and dunes, rugged mountains, desert plains , mysterious rocky craggy mountains.


Stuck in the toilet
Visited Soussouvlei in the Namib desert,-huge red/orange sand dunes which change colour depending on humidity, time of day and light. The wind constantly changes their shape in the Namib-Naukluft National Park. These dunes are part of the oldest and driest ecosystem on earth!
Stayed in comfort at Soussouvlei Lodge.





For Johannes’ birthday took tour of famous, much photographed dunes at sunrise and climbed big Pappa dune –then slid down the dune onto Dead Vlei-dead trees in a salt pan. Ended the day with a sunset plane ride (with champagne!) over the dunes to the coast -seal colonies, old mining towns and a huge ship wreck could be seen clearly as we flew so low!

Namibians are very friendly curious people who are well educated, attractive people. Huge German influence seen in names of streets, cities, food (6% German/Africaans population and used to be Deutsch West until WW1). Economy is based on minerals ie diamonds & uranium and farming. Little traffic on main roads and quite.


Trouble free border crossing into Botswana then on to Maun, a large rural town at the south eastern border of the Okavango Delta. Organized flight to the Delta and Chobe National Park. Fantastic 2 days at Vumbura Plains Lodge- stunning lodge with luxurious tented large open plan rooms on the edge of a waterway in the Okavango Delta- birds, hippos heard at night- fantastic guide (Zee) for morning and eveningsafaris –saw so many animals–began with leopard near the airstrip- then elephants, giraffes, zebras, baboons, wildebeest, implala, kudu, warthog, zebra, buffalos so close to our safari vehicle.Even saw a lion with cubs (2 males showing the beginning of their manes). Then 2 days at Savuti Elephant Lodge with elephants walking right in front of our luxury safari tents.






Our walking safari guide Ned Kelly


ancient elephant?

Road deviation

Avoiding foot and mouth disease?

Johannes eating Mopane worms

 Although very expensive truly worth it- evening safaris with Campari and orange- morning safaris with coffee and bickies, and first class cuisine- ate well, drank lovely wine and felt thoroughly indulged by helpful, friendly staff! Safari rides were informative and always lots of different animals to be seen. The ultimate in Buddhist relaxation is a Mekoro ride-just make sure you stay away from hippos!



Spent a night out in a swag on the salt pans at Makgadikgadi – saw amazing moon and sun rise and huge thousands of years old baobab trees.





Meerkats




On to Zimbabwe where we got wet at the famous Victoria Falls. Could hear the pounding of the water into the gorge from our room. Monkeys climbing into our room to steal our fruit!

Tuesday, 22 May 2012

Wine, Vistas and Capes


We are truly enjoying South Africa –firstly the landscape and stunning vistas from farmlands and vineyards to semi-deserts and rugged mountains, the way of life, food, wine  and down home hospitality -bunny chow (curry in hollowed out bread) bobotie, biltong, boerewors, droewors and braai and not forgetting pinotage!. However many amenities are somewhat old fashioned eg slow internet, slow service and exhorbitant prices for non essential and luxury items. And heavily protected luxury exists side by side with poverty.

Left Durban Thurs May 10 after a big Cockerell family send off! Travelled through farmlands with Drakensberg Ranges as a stunning backdrop. Through hills to the dry  rocky plateau with cacti then down to the coast to Jeffreys Bay surf spot. Next day via highway 62 through Natures Valley-pine forests and pristine rocky beaches. Then on to Knysna –spent the night at Tree Tops house overlooking the bay at Knysna- delicious oysters at the pretentious restaurant at the heads. Next stop Barrydale-no room at hotels or B&B’s due to film crew overrunning town-so stayed at Christine’s farm house- simple cosy home owned by delightful old fashioned Africaans family.

Next morning went up through the windy, misty mountain roads then back down to farmlands near the coast-finally reached our real starting point after 2000kms! Cape Agulhas where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet! Rugged, rocky wild coastline and the famous lighthouse.





Continued to Hermanus- a small town on the coast near  Walker Bay famous for winter whale watching. No whales insight however amazing rugged, rocky coast. 






Headed  to wine country  and stayed at the 19thcentury Cecil John Rhodes farmhouse at Boschendal - absolutely stunning in a vineyard .  Such picturesque scenery with vines of yellow/brown hues of Autumn- amazing-  two days of tasting most delicious wines - can’t remember which ones at end of each day- also  fantastic food and company with Chris and Kim.




Then on to beautiful Cape Town protected by the Table Mountain. Went up there for an amazing 360 view. Thanks to Chris's aunt  Marlene we ended up staying in a waterfront condo to make up for the suffering on the road!


Best ride yet to Cape point with a view to Cape of Good Hope and stunning vistas followed. Some 300 ship wrecks are down  there and Flying Dutchman all about.

Heading North to Namibia now and trying to catch the rhythm of long distance overland travel.







Wednesday, 9 May 2012

Beginning the journey. Feet up

We arrived in Durban almost two weeks ago to join our dear friends and travel buddies Chris and Kim to finalize plans and preparations for our 6 month journey through 32 countries.

Tomorrow feet up at 8am! marks the first day on the road of our motorbike journey – LONG WAY UP! Travelling from CAPE  TO  KAPP - Cape Agulhas, the most southern point in South Africa to NordKapp, Norway, the most northern point in Europe.


The grand plan is to travel south to Cape Agulhas, then on to Cape Town, north to Namibia, then east to Botswana, Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania and continue north through eastern Africa - Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan –with a detour to Uganda & Rwanda -  through Egypt to Jordon and Israel, crossing by ferry to Greece then  east to Turkey and north on through Eastern Europe and the Baltic States to Norway and  Nordkapp.  Our final destination will be Munich’s Octoberfest in early October!

We spent the first week waiting for Namibia and Big Betty (our trusted motor bikes) to arrive. After numerous dramas, including theft of our registration papers due to an encounter with a shonky dealer in Miami, the bikes were finally successfully shipped from Miami to Durban thanks to Chris.
Meanwhile we all took a short relaxing break at the Cockerell’s & partners “Success Farm”in the Drakensburg Ranges. A truly relaxing time at the farmhouse overlooking the valley with mountains views and the Blesboks grazing on the front lawn! We took a couple of invigorating road trips by four wheel drive along with the boys riding their motocross bikes up the rocky and bumpy mountain roads to Lesotho and to see Bushman cave paintings -such magic scenery as we traversed the rugged mountain ridges and panoramic views to die for.
In both Durban and at the farm we‘ve had lots of family gatherings and parties (ie lots of fun anddrinking !!!) and have been thoroughly spoilt by our generous and delightful hosts Clinton and Debbie (Chris’s brother& wife). 

We’ve also had the opportunity to see a little of Durban, meet all of Chris’s warm family and a number of friends and to enjoy a fantastic party to celebrate Chris’ birthday.

Spot map